FIELD MEETING Take 7: Thinking Pilgrimage | Uzbekistan
Moshtari Hilal
(Berlin & Hamburg)
Notes on Corpses, Death, and Ugliness
A site-responsive talk on September 8, 2025 | Samarkand
Set within the vaulted mausoleum chambers of Shah-i-Zinda in Samarkand, one of Central Asia’s most revered architectural ensembles of the Timurid era, Moshtari Hilal offered a talk reflecting on vulnerability, mortality, and the pressures of contemporary productivity. Known as “The King is Alive,” Shah-i-Zinda is a pilgrimage site whose luminous mausoleums and intricate tilework form a living archive of Persianate artistic and spiritual traditions. More than a funerary complex, it holds an enduring presence as a place where architectural imagination and sacred time converge. Speaking from her own experience of illness, caregiving, and survival, Hilal examined how the figure of the corpse disrupts the modern insistence on usefulness and beauty, confronting us with the inevitability of bodily decline. Moving past conventional definitions of aesthetic beauty, and in dialogue with the experience of pilgrimage itself, she suggested that the ultimate form of love and connection is one that is unafraid of ugliness. She articulated a form of love grounded in radical acceptance, one that remains present even as the body fails, decays, or can no longer perform. In this encounter between site and speech, Shah-i-Zinda became not only a historical monument but a resonant site for thinking with fragility, impermanence, and care.



FIELD MEETING Take 7: Thinking Pilgrimage | Uzbekistan Shah-i-Zinda site visit, Samarkand. Photo by Leeza Ahmady.
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